Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Forbidden Peak, East Ridge Direct to West Ridge Traverse. July 3, 2016


The east ridge of Forbidden.

Approach to the east ridge goes up a snow couloir to the right. West ridge gully approach on the left.



Kicking steps up the east ridge approach. Terminated in a vertical moat that required stemming between the rock wall and moat, quite spicy with this below you.

Nearly to the bivy notch where the route starts.

A knife edge section before an imposing looking gendarme, can't remember what number this was.


Of course the wind started whipping and we were treated to a cloudy summit. Typical Cascades.
Clouds came and went on the west ridge descent, we did get a view of the Torment-Forbidden Traverse
We took one rappel into the gully on the west ridge to avoid down climbing the steepest gloppy snow section.


A final look back on the way out, route starts left of the solitary gendarme on right skyline and runs to the notch by the cloud on the left.

Current beta on the west ridge approach, snow in gully will have moats/rock steps soon.

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